Thompson / Okanagan  


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Thompson / Okanagan


The Thompson / Okanagan Region
covers a large area nestled between the Cariboo Mountains to the northwest, the Cascade Mountains to the southwest, and the Columbia ranges to the east. It is a unique area within British Columbia, that changes dramatically over its 500km (310mi) length, from Mt Robson and the Rockies, down through the rolling hills of the Thompson Plateau, to Canada's only desert in the south.

This region is home to more than 500 lakes, including some of B.C.'s largest, which have made the Okanagan Valley, in particular, a popular recreation destination for generations. With the completion of the Coquihalla Hwy #5 in 1986, the Okanagan cities of Kelowna and Vernon are now just a 5-hour drive from Vancouver.


Emperor Falls & Mt Robson
Emperor Falls & Mt Robson 
3954m (13,167ft)
Thompson River - Kamloops
Thompson River - Kamloops
Rivers and Routes. In the region's north, Mt Robson Provincial Park rests on the B.C. / Alberta border, which traces the continental divide. Here, the many faces of the Canadian Rockies' highest peak are the main attraction for highway travelers and hikers on the Berg Lake Trail. From the glacial melt waters of Mt Robson, the mighty Fraser River detours slightly northward, to begin its 1368km (848mi) journey to the sea.

Heading south, the 'Yellowhead' section of Hwy #5, rounds the Cariboo Mountains and follows the banks of the North Thompson River. To the west, lies Wells Gray PP. 530,000 hectares (1,309,000 acres) in size, it is one of B.C.'s largest and most scenic provincial parks. And Helmcken Falls, with its single cascade of 140m (467ft), is a spectacular highlight.

The city of Kamloops, located where the #5 crosses the Trans Canada Hwy #1, is the center point and 'main intersection' of the Thompson / Okanagan. Not only is it the junction of rivers and highways, but also the major crossroads for industry and commerce throughout the region. This is cattle country, where beef and dairy products, from towns such as Armstrong, are shipped throughout B.C. and beyond.

Valleys and Vineyards. As the waters from the enormous Adams and Shuswap lakes feed the Thompson River, on its journey westward to meet the Fraser, we enter the Okanagan Valley. Beginning about 5 million years ago, the volcanic evolution of the Cascade Arc, which runs from California to B.C.'s Coast Mountains, created a rain shadow over the interior plateaus. While subsequent glaciations carved valleys and lakes as deep as 500m (1600ft), major eruptions filled the region with layers of rubble and ash.

Today, the Okanagan and neighbouring valleys are the fruit basket of British Columbia. The dry, sunny slopes, of the region's south, have provided perfect conditions for grape growers, since the arrival of Father Charles Pandosy, in the mid-1800's. Now, nearly 50 wineries, best known for their fine Chardonnays and ice wines, are a major tourist attraction.

Replacing the paddle wheel boats of early days, Hwy #97 winds its way southward, along the shores of Okanagan Lake, connecting the large urban centers of Vernon, Kelowna and Penticton. At 130km (80mi) in length, this massive lake and its drainage provide necessary irrigation not only for the vineyards, but also for the thousands of acres of orchards and fruit crops, which cover the southern region.

Okanagan orchards
Orchards of the Okanagan
Boating on Shuswap Lake
Boating on Shuswap Lake
Regattas and Recreation. Much of the Thompson / Okanagan region, sports the driest climate in the nation, and some small areas of 'pocket desert' receive a scant 300mm (12in) of precipitation annually. The many lakes and waterways are truly the lifeblood of the area, not only in terms of commerce, but community and recreation as well. Through the summer and fall seasons, every town and city hosts some form of harvest festival, or regatta on the lake.

Travel any of B.C.'s highways, to the Okanagan or Shuswap, on a holiday weekend, and join a parade of motor homes and suv's towing every watercraft imaginable. Whether you choose to paddle, jet-ski, windsurf, water-ski, or even race your hydroplane, you're headed in the right direction.

Ranches and Railways. As the boon days of the Fraser gold rush drew to a close in the 1860's, many settlers turned to horses and cattle for their livelihood. Some of B.C.'s largest working ranches still operate in the Thompson and Nicola Valleys, where the peaks of the Cascade Mountains give way to the gentler hills of the Thompson Plateau. Many 'guest ranches' offer visitors a sample of western style hospitality, and an opportunity to 'ride the range'.

By 1915, the Kettle Valley Railway had been driven through radical terrain, crossing 3 mountain ranges, to provide a critical link between the southern reaches of the Fraser Valley, Okanagan and Kootenay regions. Dozens of tunnels and bridges were constructed, at great expense, including the incredible Mc Cullok Trestle. A steel girder bridge, 188m (620ft) long and 73m (240ft) high, it is the third largest in North America.

A branch was added to the railway, to connect the ranches and mines near Nicola River towns of Merritt and Spences Bridge, to the main line. However, by the 1960's, frequent rock slides and improved northern routes had led the way for the economic demise of the KVR. What remains of the route today is not only a haven for rail historians, but also provides mile after mile of scenic trail for adventure seekers on bicycles, all-terrain vehicles and horseback. Many of the magnificent trestles of the KVR burned in 2003, which was regarded as the worst wildfire season in sixty years.

Thompson / Okanagan ranchlands
Thompson / Okanagan ranchlands
Skiing at Silver Star, Vernon
Skiing above the clouds -
Silver Star, Vernon
The Hodgeman spent many a childhood vacation visiting relatives in Kelowna, and enjoying the annual regatta on the lake. Nowadays, with the Coquihalla Hwy providing improved access, I can easily make long weekend getaways, to the dry powder skiing of my favorite Okanagan resorts, like 'Silver Star' near Vernon, or the rapidly expanding 'Sun Peaks' at Kamloops.