Mt Assiniboine 2001  

Trip Report - September 14 to 20, 2001

Mt Assiniboine Photo Gallery

Part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Mt Assiniboine was named in 1884, by surveyor G.M. Dawson, after a local native tribe of the Sioux Confederation. It is the centerpiece of a relatively small Provincial Park (39,050 hectares / 96453 acres), tucked up against the Alberta border, between Kootenay NP on the B.C. side, and Banff NP to the east. The mountain itself is often referred to as the 'Matterhorn of the Rockies' and, at 3,618m (11867ft), is the seventh highest in the Canadian range.

There are no roads in Mt Assiniboine PP, and the shortest access trail to the 'core area' is 30km (19mi) westward, from Mt Shark in the Kananaskis region of southwest Alberta. The northern access route, which departs from the Sunshine Village ski area of Banff, and traces the Continental Divide and provincial border southward, is slightly longer and more strenuous. If transportation could be arranged, a north / south traverse would be ideal.

Mt Assiniboine
3,618m (11,867ft)

Downtown Banff

I pass through the Fraser Valley town of Mission and collect Mel enroute. We will spend our first night front-country camping near the Banff townsite, which is a ten-hour drive from Vancouver. Tomorrow morning, a short drive will take us to Sunshine Village base, where a local tour company operates an off-season shuttle to the trailhead at the ski area.

We are packed fairly heavy, so our initial plan is to spend Saturday and Sunday covering the more than 30km (19mi) from Sunshine to Lake Magog, at the base of Mt Assiniboine. After a couple of days exploring the core area, we hope to retrace our route and meet a 4pm return shuttle on Thursday. Things don't always go as planned!

The sky is clear; it's a perfect day! A quick 100m (330ft) descent, into a small basin, brings us to Howard Douglas Lake, and again we are compelled to linger at this small inviting tarn. After topping up our water bottles, we begin a long steady climb toward Citadel Peak, while wide panoramic views, of snowy Mt Ball and the summits of Kootenay NP, appear to the west. We'll pause at a small tarn in Citadel Pass (2360m / 7860ft), which is the last water source, on the main trail, for the next 14km (8.6mi).

Through the pass, we descend steeply 540m (1800ft) down a densely forested drainage. As I whack my way down the cut-off trail, a huge cow moose crashes out of the bushes right behind me. To say that I was startled would be an understatement. Porcupine Campsite is about 180m (600ft) below the main trail, at the head of the Simpson River Valley. There's water here, but it's not much of a site. We plan for an early departure in the morning.

Sunshine Meadows
from Quartz Ridge

Valley of the Rocks

The next 6km (4mi) or so, takes us up through Golden Valley and then the Valley of the Rocks. The latter isn't so much a valley as a depression, where over a billion cubic feet of rock once tumbled into the area. Fortunately the slide, which is one of the largest in the world, happened long ago and the area is now reasonably well shaded by trees. But, it's still warm and dry as the trail winds its way, through the boulders, enroute to Og Lake and our next available water.

The main campground, which is located on an ancient moraine, about 50m (165ft) above the lake, is nicely treed and provides excellent views of the Boine's north face. We are surprised and happy to see very few other campers, in this normally very busy area, and have our pick of the designated sites. The nearby creek is dry, so I take a water bag down to the lake, as Mel prepares his camp. After a filling meal, we enjoy the starry evening sky, before calling it a night.

Og Lake & campground

View from 'The Nub'

One after another, the lakes and ridges surrounding Mt Assiniboine become visible. What incredible views!! The Boine appears a little hazy and lies due south, so photos will be difficult, but we snap away and revel in the scenic grandeur. Continuing on up the ridge, to the Nub summit (2748m / 9150ft), we can see all the way back, across the deep valleys to the ski slopes of Sunshine Village, 30km (19mi) in the distance. We break for lunch and some chit-chat with a few lodgers, that have followed us up.

By dusk, we're back in camp and I drop my pack, to set off toward the lake, for another bag of water. "Got your camera?" Mel asks, "You might see something." "Nah" I say, with a wave of the hand. 40m (130ft) along the trail, I make a turn, into the steep and narrow drainage path leading down to the lake. Ten steps down and "Damn.... Grizzly!!" He's browsing right at the bottom of the drainage, about 20m (65ft) below me and 30m (100ft) down the path. I stop long enough to see its distinctive shoulder hump and grizzled brown and silver fur, then take a step back out of sight. "Whew!" If he had been a few steps around the corner, I would have been right down there on top of him, with no camera or bear deterrents..... too close!

Mel is surprised by my prompt return to camp, and I insist that if he hadn't suggested that I 'might see something', I probably wouldn't have. Together, we venture cautiously toward the lake, with cameras in hand, to fetch our bag of water, but our visitor has moved on. Supper is a bit late this evening, and we carefully clean our camp, before hanging food and retiring for the night.

Elizabeth Lake
from Chuck's Ridge

Ranger Station

As the morning sun begins to burn through the clouds, we head out in the direction of the ranger station and the Naiset Huts. These beautiful, small cabins are operated by B.C. Parks, and are available to campers without reservation, for a small nightly fee. I check in with the ranger, to report our visitor at the lake last night, and she informs us of other grizzly activity, as well as a worsening weather forecast. On a lighter note, she recommends a visit to the lodge, between 4 and 5pm, for tea and cakes (beer).

The Assiniboine Lodge is an impressive collection, of log cabins and a main building, constructed in 1928, by the Canadian Pacific Railway. The land is part of the park, but the buildings are leased to Sepp and Barbara Renner, who have operated the business, for the last 18 years. They are gracious hosts and despite our early arrival, Barbara invites us in for cold beers. In addition to accommodation, they run their own helicopter shuttle, to the eastern trailhead three days a week, and will ferry in gear for anyone wishing to day-hike to the core.

Returning to our camp for dinner, we feel the first drops of rain and quickly configure the tarp to cook under. As I'm pondering whether the lodge would have parted with a bottle of their Chilean Cabernet to accompany our meal, a wicked hail storm sweeps into the valley with a gusting wind. We'll be warm and dry tonight, but I am once again considering our options, for tomorrow's departure.

Overlooking Gloria Lake

One of the Naiset Huts

As we approach the lodge area, we detour to one of the empty Naiset Huts, to regroup and weigh our options. We've ruled out retracing our entry route, as Citadel Pass is not really a place where you would want to camp in severe weather. Likewise, arriving at Mt Shark at dusk today, would provide no advantage. So, we hang up our jackets and break out the stove for coffee. "These huts are really nice", Mel says and he's right. We should have moved here yesterday. With coffee in hand, I wander down to the lodge, which now looks like a Christmas card scene in the fresh snow. Weather permitting, today is a 'fly day' and Sepp tells me that he can chopper us out at 1pm, and have his son drive us, to Canmore. Hmm.... definitely an inviting option.

Once clear of the pass, we plunge quickly into the Bryant Creek Valley, where the snow gives way to intermittent rain showers. Despite our 11am departure, we catch up to our new acquaintances, in time for a snack at the head of the drainage. Our route from here gradually descends through the broad, lush valley, for the next 8km (5mi), to the Bryant shelter, where the trail from Marvel Lake joins in from the west.

After some discussion, the group decides to continue on to the trailhead. I would have voted to stop for the night, since our hotel near Lake Louise was not expecting us until Thursday, but Mel and I are agreeable to whatever they choose, and the idea of dinner in Canmore is sounding pretty good. The remaining 13.5km (8.4mi) is a tedious slog through a 'green tunnel'. Fortunately, the trail is practically a roadway, so we can chat with Bernard's group and still move along quickly, to reach the trailhead by about 6:30.

Bryant Creek Valley

On Hwy #1 at Rogers Pass

A late sauna and 'last call' at the lodge were just the ticket, before resting up for today's long drive home. Normally, I'd be happy to share the driving, if it weren't for the fact that the only thing scarier than getting into Mel's car is letting him drive mine. It was absolutely pouring rain this morning, as we hit the road, but it brightens up as we get to Roger's Pass. Despite the wild weather and changing plans, we've had a good trip to this awesome park. I'll certainly be able to make use of the extra day at home, before heading out to Olympic NP in Washington, on Sunday.