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[ Archive Index ] [ 2001 ]
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The Stein Valley is a 1060km² (413mi²) 'Heritage Park' nestled between British Columbia's Coast Mountains and the Fraser River Canyon. A 'transition zone' between 'coastal rainforest' and dry 'interior plateau', this untouched watershed is an ecologically complete and diverse area. Nearly 30 years ago, various mountain clubs and environmental organizations began efforts, to prevent logging in the Stein. The Mt Currie and Lytton Indian Bands, along with the 'Save the Stein Coalition', were instrumental in the eventual protection, of this unique and culturally important area. In 1995, an agreement was reached for joint management of the area, by B.C. Parks and the Lytton Indian Band |
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Monday, July 9th. Our trip begins
with a 2½ hour drive from Vancouver, up the Fraser Canyon to the town of
Lytton. This 'near desert' area is often Canada's 'hot spot'. Today's
temperature is 38°c (101°f) and I am tempted to change our destination,
at the last minute.
My neighbour Gary, joins me for this five day trip and we are anxious to spend as much time on the trail, and as little in the car, as possible. So, the Stein it is. This week's forecast is calling for "slightly cooler temperatures" and a "chance of thunderstorms", which are often 'dry lightning' in this area. A small cable ferry takes us to the trailhead, at the confluence of the Stein and Fraser Rivers. We don our packs, cover our heads and descend to the dry benchlands, of the Stein Canyon. |
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| My pal, Gary, is a regular marathon runner and I
am certainly no stranger to long treks in adverse conditions, but
neither of us is conditioned for this kind of heat, in southwest B.C.
"It's feels hotter here than the Serengeti did", Gary tells me.
I am not encouraged.
A short distance up river, the canyon narrows and we reach the 'Devil's Staircase'. The trail from here climbs up and down, through a couple of rockslide areas, thirteen hundred feet above the rapids. We remind each other, that we are here to enjoy ourselves, and opt to take up a position in the shade, to feel the power of the river. Later, an early evening hike takes us to our first riverside camp, where a teepee frame once stood. With the exception of a lot of flies and mosquitoes, we have the entire valley to ourselves. |
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Tuesday, July 10th. Early morning is the time
to be hiking, on this trip. We hit the trail by 7:30, and it's already
20°c (69°f). Continuing west, up the bolder strewn benchlands, which at
one time were river bottom, the Ponderosa pine and Douglas fir give way to
a small cedar grove, near Earl's Creek.
A few more short climbs, and we reach the river crossing at 13.2km (8.3mi). A cable car will take us to the north side of the river, where the valley begins to change dramatically. Behind us now, are the rapid waters of the canyon, and ahead lies the more tranquil valley floor, carved by glaciers, thousands of years ago. |
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| Each step and turn, in the trail, takes us
through different vegetation and microclimates. Gently rolling, forested
benches occasionally take us away from the river and the silty flood
plain, to provide views from above. Aspen, birch and clusters of
cottonwood, join the mix of trees on the valley floor, as we traverse
Snake Bluffs.
Back down in the forest and slightly off of the trail, at 21km (13.2mi), is my favorite camp spot. Ponderosa shelter sits just above the Stein River and, as we arrive, a warm breeze is keeping the bugs at bay. We'll lay low and enjoy the river, as afternoon temperatures soar. |
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Wednesday, July 11. Another
hiker, we
call 'Boat-builder Bill', surprised us at camp last night, and joins us
for our day trip to Cottonwood Creek. Gary and I are happy to be without
full packs today, and Bill is carrying less than thirty pounds, which includes what
he considers to be "five days worth of food".
Our westward trail continues; a mix of open floored forests of pine and fir, low swampy areas near the river, and rocky bluffs above. The forest is reasonably clear of blow-down, but, the low areas are quite overgrown and require a bit of bush-whacking. Cottonwood Creek intersects the trail at the 30km (19mi) mark, and is one of the main 'feeders' of the Stein watershed. For Gary and I, a short climb up Unnecessary Knob provides excellent views to the southwest, where the trail follows the dense valley bottom, to the upper canyon and Stein Lake, 20km (12.5mi) further on. |
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| Bill intends to reach Stein Lake, today (not
likely). He must then climb immediately, to 2000m (6600ft), and trace a
ridge route connecting him to the high alpine trail, of the western Stein
Wilderness, to complete the 85km (53mi) traverse. Although he is carrying
an ice axe, I suspect that he is ill-equipped and I recommend the northern
exit route.
We bid farewell to Bill, and wish him "Good Luck" (he's going to need it), as he heads for a 60ft log crossing Cottonwood Creek, and his intended route. Gary and I have less ambitious pursuits in mind, and retreat to the cooling breeze and mist of Cottonwood Falls. |
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Upon our return to camp at Ponderosa, we
encounter a group of four hikers from California, and selfishly point them
in the direction of the actual (somewhat marginal) campground, ten minutes
further on. There is a creek there, and they like the idea of having a pit toilet
and bear cache.
Once again, we seem to have the valley to ourselves. As the evening bats clean up the last of the days insects, I am surprised by the lack of wildlife in the valley, this year. We have seen some deer and black bear track, and something rather large crashed through the bushes, below Snake Bluffs, but it's been unusually quiet. In past years, I have come here in May, when temperatures are more suitable, and had close encounters with all kinds of animals, both large and small. |
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| Thursday, July 12. The sky is a little
overcast this morning, and it's slightly cooler. I actually got in my
sleeping bag, last night. We hit the trail a little later than usual and
plan to take our time, on the return trip to the canyon. We pick a breezy
spot, near the cable car, to watch the river gathering speed, as it heads
for the rapids.
Back on the south side, our trail is now short climbs and long descents. The sun has returned and we stop to view some of the native pictographs, which can be found throughout the Stein. These 'rock drawings' were of spiritual importance to the Nlaka'pamux people, as they hunted and fished, in the valley, during summer months. |
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We spend some time at Earl's Creek and set up
camp near a reconstructed cabin. The original was built by a trapper and
prospector named Fred Earl, who died overseas during World War 1. He
reportedly took $12,000 in gold from the creek, but his cache has yet to
be found.
'Old Fred' picked a beautiful spot. The meadow nearby is normally an excellent place for viewing wildlife, and we are happy to be spending our last night here. |
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| Friday, July 13. For the superstitious,
Friday the 13th is probably not a good day to be traversing canyon walls.
But, we move safely, through the slide areas, and return to the dusty
canyon floor. A short climb takes us up to the trailhead and waiting
Jeep, where we tally our bug bites and scratches. The lower Stein Valley may not be a destination for sweeping scenic vistas, but day-hikers can certainly enjoy the canyon. To truly get a feel for this magnificent area, several days are needed, to immerse yourself and experience the transition of the valley. Note: Some details of this route have changed. Be sure to check the link below, for updates. |
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| Stein
Valley Info |
Maps (21kb.gif) (117kb.pdf) |
Stein Photo Gallery |
Stein Valley 2001 
