Montanapalooza 2002  


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Trip Report - July 12 to 21, 2002

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Trip Report - July 12 to 21, 2002

Montana - Big sky country?.... you bet! And big storms, big heat and big hoards of mosquitoes, too! The Hodgeman's on the road again, to join some American friends, for a week in the Beartooth Wilderness.

Friday, July 12th. This week's forecast.... HOT !! So, I hit the road early, to beat the heat and traffic as well. I cross the border at 4am, and it's clear sailing, down the I-5 to Seattle. East on the I-90 and I've got a clear lane, all the way to Spokane, Wa. I had initially planned to spend the night here, but it's only 10am so I press on. It's already too hot for rest stops, and I arrive in Missoula, Mt, before 3pm MDT. It's 42ºc (108ºf) and time for a swim, dinner, and a quick internet 'check-in'.

I-90, near Butte, Mt
I-90 near Butte, Mt
Saturday, July 13th. It's going to be another hot one, so I'm up and out by 7:30am. I've got my water bottle handy and I'll put the sun top on the Jeep, as the day warms up, but it's almost impossible to stay hydrated for the hike.

Our Montana hosts have been feverishly preparing, for the onslaught of 'Paloozers'. Geezr and Aero, with the help of Newgirl and Chief (nicknames have been used, to protect the innocent), have everything coordinated, and one by one we descend upon Aero's front yard, in Billings.

Sunday, July 14th. The team is anxious to get started, and we convoy down to Red Lodge, for breakfast and to drop off the shuttle vehicles, at the trail's end. It's a spectacular drive, over the Beartooth Hwy, to Aero's cabin and our starting point, near Cooke City. What magnificent views, from the 3350m (11,000ft) passes.

Chief taps the keg, and there's greetings and bar-b-q, as the stragglers arrive at the cabin. Altogether, we are fifteen for the hike, with Montana, California, Florida, Indiana, Texas, Georgia, Ohio, Wyoming and B.C. represented. What a fantastic group!! 

Aero's cabin, near Cooke City
Aero's cabin, near Cooke City, Mt
'Dining room', at Oulez Lake camp
'Dining room', at Ouzel Lake camp
Monday, July 15th. Thankfully, it's a bit cooler for us today, as most of our hike will be above 2440m (8000ft). This will be 'hump day'. We'll gain about 460m (1500ft) over 13km (8mi), enroute to our first camp, at Ouzel Lake. The mosquitoes are incessant, for most of the day, and continue to pester us at camp, until the first storm drives us to our tents. Before the heavy rains arrive, we are entertained by a fantastic show of thunder and lightning.

Tuesday, July 16th. It's another warm, sunny day, for our move to Windy Lake (2987m / 9800ft). Aero and I decide on 'higher ground' for camp, in hopes that a breeze will help to keep the bugs at bay. We have the whole afternoon to explore the area and relax in the sunshine.

After dinner, a small group joins Crazy Mike, for his first ascent to 10,000 ft, and to take pictures of the sunset. It's a calm evening and we're happy to have a chance to sit out and get to know each other. After dark, Gojo and I are last to turn in, and it's not long before the breeze turns to high alpine winds, as we are bombarded by hail and heavy rain.

What an incredible storm! The lightning flashes are so bright, it makes no difference if I close my eyes, or not! We are quite exposed, at this elevation, and I peer out of my shelter, to see if the flapping that I hear is Pepperdog's tent taking her for a flight, into the lake.

The Hodgeman & Crazy Mike. - photo: Aero
The Hodgeman & Crazy Mike,
at 10,000 ft.
Rainbow, at Dewey Lake camp
Rainbow, at Dewey Lake camp
Wednesday, July 17th. As usual, I'm up with the dawn to survey the damage and count tents. Whew! .... all present and accounted for. Storms and mosquitoes are popular topics of conversation for this trip. It's another beautiful morning..... there is definitely a pattern to this weather.

Across several streams we go, on our way down to Dewey Lake (2847m / 9340ft). A quick dip in the lake seemed like a good idea, but it's darn cold and I'm back out as quickly as I can get to shore.

As the clouds build once again, we hurry to finish dinner and hang the food, before the rain. I'm determined to stay out for a while tonight, so Aero and I configure the tarp, after the others retreat to their tents. Briar Rabbit and Snow Dude join us, as the daily storm lifts and we are treated to a spectacular rainbow.

Thursday, July 18th. We have about 8km (5mi) to go today, to reach our final camp at Rainbow Lake (2338m / 7670ft). As the first group sets off, I opt for a later start, for a chance to clean up my gear. Pepperdog joins me, for the hike and we enjoy the route, beside the river rapids and past many waterfalls, as we descend the East Rosebud drainage. I promise not to take a photo, should she fall at another creek crossing.

The camp at Rainbow lake is warm and sheltered in a meadow. The team spreads out seeking sun, shade, or a quick swim in the lake. Aero and I set up the tarp early, which of course means that it won't rain at all. As I prepare my dinner, Prowler arrives, having hiked up the steep trail, from our future exit point, to spend the last night with us. Not only are we surprised to see him, but he and his wife, Kym, are each packing a child carrier, complete with toddler and camp gear.

Pepperdog takes a break
Pepperdog takes a break
Briar Rabbit, at the scene, of the blaze
Briar Rabbit,
at the scene, of the blaze
Friday, July 19th. It's an early start for everyone today, so that we can reach the trailhead with enough time to shuttle drivers, before meeting in Red Lodge for a final dinner. I break camp and depart, shortly after the first hikers. Before long, I encounter Geezr hustling back to camp, to alert everyone of a wildfire near the trail.

Fortunately, the illegal campfire, which had spread underground to ignite the blaze, is very close to the lake. Briar Rabbit, an experienced forest fire-fighter, takes charge as we gathered up our buckets, bags and whatever we could find, to carry water. After two hours, of dousing and sifting through the duff, we climb back to the trail, confident that the situation is under control.

Prowler, who had scrambled to get his family packed and down to the scene, collapses due to illness. Now Tex, our EMT, takes charge as Aero hurries out to the trailhead, to alert the Forestry Service, of a possible med-evac. The rest of us gather up Prowler's family and gear, and make for the exit.

Saturday, July 20th. As usual, things don't always go as planned on these trips. Prowler recovered and connected with some of us, back near Red Lodge. The combination of events had left us somewhat spread out, but we managed to return everyone to their vehicles, and get them back on the road. Naviguesser, Tex, Pepperdog and I got back to Billings, in time for a late dinner with Aero, and set up at his place for the night.

Today, Nav, Tex and Pepper will head for the airport and I'm back on the road, after final good-byes. It will be another great, and somewhat cooler, drive home. I love these Interstate Highways!!

A special thanks to Aero, Geezr and everyone else, who made this trip possible. You guys are the best! And to 'the team'.... It was great to meet "y'all" and I'll look forward to our first chance to do it all again! Regards.... Hodgeman

Hodgeman, at the Clay Butte Fire Lookout - photo: Pepperdog
The Hodgeman,
at the Clay Butte Fire Lookout
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