Tonquin Valley 2002  

Trip Report - September 14 to 19, 2002

Tonquin Valley Photo Gallery

The Tonquin Valley sits on the east side of the continental divide, to the southwest of the Jasper townsite. It is the intersection of several different drainages, and therefore a busy migration route for many animals, including Caribou, Elk and Grizzlies.

Unlike most of the Rocky Mountain parks, Jasper is open to horse packers. In fact, much of this enormous park's 10,878 km² (4199 mi²), particularly the north section, is likely best traveled on horseback. A hiker could spend many days just crossing one of Jasper's massive glacial valleys.

There are, however, a few areas, that provide relatively easy access for day-hikers and backpackers, to experience the magnificence of Jasper NP, and the Tonquin is definitely one of them.

Jasper NP office

Clear view, of Mt Robson

We're on the road early and make terrific time to Kamloops for brunch. Then it's northward, up the Yellowhead Hwy #5. We pass the spectacular peak of Mt Robson, in clear view, as we turn east toward Alberta, and arrive in Jasper by mid-afternoon.

After checking in to our 'too small' room, at the 'over priced' lodge, we stop by the park office to collect our back-country permits, before returning for a lousy meal in the pub. The only thing good, about this 'character lodge', is the location!

It's a 30km (20 mi) drive to the Mt Edith Cavell trailhead, and we decide to go to the end of the road, for a look at the peak. As I work my way around a hundred other vehicles, and squeeze in to park between two motor homes, I already know that I don't want to be here. But, I dutifully join the parade, for a few minutes, before returning to the Jeep for lunch. I'm definitely ready to get out of the tourist zone.

Our Trail descends gently, from the Edith Cavell road, to meet the rising Astoria River Valley. It's a warm afternoon, but we are shaded by Englemann Spruce and White Pines, while berry bushes and willows provide fall colour. There is evidence of horse traffic, along the wide path, and we encounter two groups exiting the trail.

It's an easy 7 km (4.3 mi), to our first camp, on a bench above the Astoria River, where we meet a group of four Americans, who have already set up. After relaxing by the river, we enjoy a good dinner and the company of our new friends, from New York, before turning in for a quiet night. I'm hoping that the weather will hold for tomorrow's hike, into the heart of the Tonquin.

Ablaze with fall colour

First view, of the Ramparts

I've chosen the slightly longer and higher route, to our next camp at Surprise Point, on the south shore of Amethyst Lakes. Despite a 'changeable' forecast, the day is fair as we continue up the Astoria Valley. The wide trail is in decent condition as we ascend the shoulder, of Old Horn Mountain. The switchbacks here add unnecessary footsteps for strong hikers, but this horse path is graded to perfection and I hardly notice the climb.

Our route levels out, at 2135 m (7000 ft), onto a long plateau of meadows, at the tree line. It's sunny and warm, but light rain has begun to ride in on the breeze. We've been anticipating fabulous views of the Ramparts, rising from the western shores of Amethyst Lakes, but as we reach the trail's high point, many of the peaks are now obscured by clouds. We hope for better 'photo ops', on our return trip.

We arrive at Surprise Point camp, by mid-afternoon, and hustle to set up, in the shadow of the approaching storm. The views from this location, would be spectacular, in good weather. But, as our American friends arrive, via the lower route, the onslaught begins with rain and high winds. By dinner time, the rain has turned to heavy wet snow, as the temperature dips near freezing. It's an early night to the tents.

Trident Range,
across Amethyst Lake

Mt Clitheroe, from a snowy camp

The weather still looks variable, at best, so after a quick breakfast and coffee, we set off on a day trip up the east shore, of Amethyst Lake. We'll hope for a more reliable day tomorrow, to check out the Eremite Valley, but for today we'll be happy if we can get some good photos of the core area.

The day warms quickly, and the golden yellow and orange, of the willows and heather, return as the snow begins to melt away. As we work our way down the glistening meadows, we can already see the next storm building up, at the head of the valley.

The Ramparts are once again engulfed, in a shroud of low clouds, as a sudden wind brings near white-out conditions to the meadow. We're quite familiar with Rocky Mountain weather, but as we plow into the headwind, we are surprised by how quickly the snow has set upon us.

After applying a fresh white blanket, to our camp, the squall has passed quickly. We arrive in time to bid farewell, to our American neighbours, as they set off to their next camp. I am surprised to see, not only a sturdy Dutchman on a world tour roll into camp, but also a couple from France, who look ill-prepared for the weather. They are followed closely by a blustery Jasper local, we'll call 'Trail-builder Tom', and his girlfriend.

Tonquin Valley Lodge,
below Bennington Peak

Frozen tent,
at Surprise Point camp

Since we are intending to return to the Astoria campground tomorrow anyways, there is little reason to wait things out here today. So, we decide upon 'Plan B' and load up our gear, as the snow sets in again, and prepare to make our move a day early. If the situation should happen to improve, on Thursday, we can do a side trip from there.

Our Dutch friend has decided to wait it out, and the French couple have 'bugged out' already. We join Trail-builder Tom and his girlfriend, as they set out, across the meadow. It will be a foul day indeed, in the alpine, so instead we traverse a meadow, below the tree line, and pick up an old telegraph trail, which descends gradually to intersect the main trail. It will be another stormy evening, back at our first camp.

I creep quietly from my tent, at first light, hoping that the elk are still nearby, but they have moved on...... and so should we! One quick look, toward the head of the Astoria Valley, tells the day's future and it isn't pretty. 

The gusting wind has the trees bent to dangerous angles, as they rain debris down upon us. My tarp is surprisingly still pegged to the ground, where we left it last night, so Mel and I crawl under for a coffee. Then it's a quick pack-up and we hit the trail, one step ahead of the daily storm.

Twilight view,
above the Astoria River

Mel pauses, at the blowdown

After starling a mule deer from the trail, I pause to clear some downed branches, and see a group of hikers starting in. They are packed light, and will be thankful to arrive at their lodge, after the storm takes its toll. As I round the last turn to the trailhead, I hear the distinct sound of cracking timber, and freeze in my tracks as a snag drops across the trail before me.

Heavy rain blows in as we load into the Jeep, and head back to Jasper for a shower and lunch. We have only been able to scratch the surface, of what this magnificent area has to offer, and we are already talking of a return visit, to see more of the Tonquin Valley.