Stein Valley 2003  


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Trip Report May 2003

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Trip Report - May 2003

At last, Spring has sprung, in southwest B.C., and after a somewhat dismal ski season The Hodgeman is ready to hit the trail. 

During the shoulder season, I've had a chance to hook up with a local hiking group, for several day hikes. It's been great to meet a whole bunch of new people and revisit some of my favorite local trails.

I had already scheduled my five day trip for the Stein, from May 12-16, when the club decided to do a 'palooza' style overnighter, for the weekend before. So, what the heck....... I might as well do both!!


'Treaders' at the trailhead
'Treaders' at the trailhead
Trail Bunny & Hiking Nut
Trail Bunny & Hiking Nut
raise a toast
Friday, May 2nd to Sunday, May 4th. I joined five other 'Treaders', to head in to the Stein on the Friday, in advance of the main group. We hiked in, as far as Teepee camp, and set up where the others would be joining us the next day.

After a day hike to the north side of the river, on Saturday morning, we returned to Teepee to greet the twenty other hikers, as they straggled into camp. It was great to spend a couple of days with  new friends and meeting some more local hikers, for a major on-trail social.

Sunday, May 11th. After a beautiful afternoon celebrating Mother's Day and birthdays, at Familyfest '03, I hustled up to the trailhead and hoisted my pack, to make my way in to the first camp before dark.

My guests for this week, Forest Walker and Pebbles, have already arrived from Grand Prairie, Alta. They are beginning a lengthy backpacking and rock climbing tour of B.C., and I was happy that they'll have the time to explore the Stein Valley.

Monday, May 12th. It's a beautiful morning, in the canyon, and we're ready to hit the trail. We have all day, to reach our destination for the night at Earl's cabin, so we take our time and enjoy the many views and photo ops, along the riverside. Having visited this area a number of times, I'm mostly interested in getting some more pictures of the flora and fauna of the Stein.

The Stein River
The Stein River
Pebbles & Forest Walker
Pebbles & Forest Walker
at Earl's camp
Tuesday, May 12. We had a relaxing evening, at Earl's cabin, despite the surprise arrival of a large group from a boarding school in Vancouver. I had hoped to spot some wild life, in the meadow near the cabin, early in the morning. But, that's unlikely with so many people in the area.

The typical canyon winds persisted through the night, and it seems cooler than normal, for this time of year, as we make our move to the Ponderosa shelter. Layers of clothing go off and on, as we cross the new bridge to the north side of the Stein.

I'm happy to see that the trail is mostly clear of blowdown, and we make good time through the forest and swamp areas. The sun finally breaks through and warms the valley, with perfect timing for a long break at Snake Bluffs, where we can enjoy the views above the canopy of cottonwoods and aspen.

Wednesday, May 13. It's been cold overnight and the barometer has dropped, as we awake to an overcast sky and a noticeable change in the weather. There's more fresh snow, on the surrounding peaks, and I won't be at all surprised to hear that it's been downright nasty, back in Vancouver today.

We'll take daypacks and rain jackets, for our trip to Cottonwood Canyon, today. The forest is alive with birds and I'll keep my camera handy, with hopes of a lucky shot. Perhaps the cooler temperatures have brought out the wildlife. We encounter many of the usual suspects along the trail, including snakes, lizards, rabbits and mule deer.

Clouds enshroud the upper valley and rain is visible in the hills, as we take a lunch break at Cottonwood Creek. There won't be any worthwhile westward views, from Unnecessary Knob, so we spare ourselves the climb and settle for a look at the falls, before we retreat to Ponderosa in advance of the approaching weather.

Lunch at Cottonwood camp
Lunch at Cottonwood camp
Cable car platform
Cable car platform at
Cottonwood Falls
Thursday, May 15th. Retracing our route, to the trailhead, always seems much quicker than the trip in. There will be an overall loss in elevation and fewer photo stops, in the places that we have seen already.

I've noticed many differences, along the way, this year. Of course it's never the same trip twice. There appeared to be more flowers in bloom and more wildlife. And, despite having spent many weeks on this trail, our second night at Ponderosa was the first time I'd ever seen actual rain, in this area.

Not all of the changes were necessarily improvements. The new suspension bridge certainly makes for an easier crossing, of the Stein River, than the cable car it replaced. Without a doubt, it was built to last far longer, than either of its predecessors.

The log crossing, at Cottonwood camp, has been decked and railed, to provide an adequate and safe means. I had heard that a cable car had been added and was shocked to see the monstrosity, which had been placed right at the bottom of the falls. To my mind, it seems both excessive and ridiculous in it's placement, marring what had been a beautifully secluded highlight, on the Stein.

Friday, May 16th. Forest Walker and I had been up late last night, at Teepee camp, discussing options for future forays deeper into the Stein, as well as other trips and plans for the summer season ahead.

We descend the 'devil's staircase' and arriving at the trailhead, I say goodbye to Forest Walker and Pebbles, offering 'good luck' for the climbing adventures next on their list. I hope to see them again, before they return to Alberta. My next quest is to find a decent hamburger.

Spring flowers
Spring flowers bloom
throughout the valley
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