Tonquin Valley 2003  

Trip Report - September 14 to 18, 2003

Troy's Photo Gallery

My friend Mel and his son Troy are scheduled to accompany me, for a trip to the Rockies. It's been a few years since Troy has been able to join us, and we were hoping to explore a new area. However, due to the extreme fire risk, Jasper remains the only park issuing trail permits, so we plan for a return to the Tonquin Valley.

Forest fires burned southern B.C.

Little remains of a Barriere home

This highway was closed for weeks due to a major forest fire, which had engulfed the small town of Barriere. As we approach the area, the extent of the devastation is shocking. We drive slowly, as if unwilling to disturb some ancient war ground, breaking the silence only long enough to whisper such things as "My God !!". Posted in front of a few houses, are messages for firefighters.... "Thank you for saving my home", or "Thanks for trying"

The terrain indeed resembles the 'scorched earth' of a recent battle, and the smell of burnt timber lingers, as I step from the Jeep to photograph a burned out lumber mill. Blackened steel, of heavy equipment, sits melted in place and massive log piles have been reduced cinders.

Our route today will take us over the shoulder of Old Horn Mtn (2988m / 9800') for views of the Ramparts, as they rise from Amethyst Lake, on the Continental Divide. It's a cool day, but the sun feels warm on our faces....... until the snow starts!

The mountain peaks are playing 'hide & seek' in the clouds, as we begin the short descent to Amethyst Lake. We arrive at Surprise Point camp and set up our tents, as the 'white stuff' starts to accumulate on the ground.

Mel approaches Surprise Point

Grizzly at Amethyst Lake

 The Eremite Valley is socked in with heavy weather, so we won't bother with a day trip down there. We could move camp to the other end of the lake, then head out via Portal Creek on Thursday. Finally, we decide to spend the snowy day with our cameras, around Amethyst, then exit back out the Astoria route. At this point, I am blissfully unaware that my trusty Minolta had fired its last shot, back on the Yellowhead Highway. Fortunately, Troy captured some great photos of the grizzly sow, on his digital.

There's a few breaks in the clouds, and we're not in any particular hurry, to move camp, this morning. So, we take time to visit with a couple from Oregon, who were set up nearby, and a young ranger on her first visit to the park. I am a bit surprised by how many people we've seen, in the area this year. I would almost expect to have the place to ourselves, by mid-September.

Our return trail has changed a bit. The melting snow, combined with some recent horse traffic, has made things pretty mucky in places. But, we make good time and stop for lunch near the Astoria River. We're hoping for a dry night at camp.

Surprise Point & the Ramparts

View from Surprise camp

I'll only be home for a day, before heading out to Manning PP in the Cascades, to meet some friends for a weekend on the Skyline Trail. But, that's long enough to discover that my camera is indeed dead and I have no pics of my own, from the Tonquin.

It would have been nice to do a bit more exploring, in better weather, but it's been a good trip none the less. Always nice to get out with Mel and Troy, and the Tonquin is a spectacular place in any conditions.