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September has arrived to The Home of the Hodgeman. It's been a fantastic summer season! British Columbians have enjoyed the driest June - July - August, in sixty years. Unfortunately, this also created a 'state of emergency', as nearly a thousand forest fires swept across southern B.C., destroying hundreds of homes, and causing the evacuation of more than thirty thousand residents! The military was called in, to assist fire fighters, and by Labour Day the forests were completely closed to backcountry travel. My friend Mel and his son Troy are scheduled to accompany me, for a trip to the Rockies. It's been a few years since Troy has been able to join us, and we were hoping to explore a new area. However, due to the extreme fire risk, Jasper remains the only park issuing trail permits, so we plan for a return to the Tonquin Valley. |
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Sunday, September
14th. At last, the rain has returned to the Fraser Valley. It's absolutely
pouring as I arrive in Abbotsford, to meet the guys at 6 am. After a quick
brunch in Kamloops, we turn north, up the Yellowhead Hwy #5, to follow the
Thompson River toward Jasper.
This highway was closed for weeks due to a major forest fire, which had engulfed the small town of Barriere. As we approach the area, the extent of the devastation is shocking. We drive slowly, as if unwilling to disturb some ancient war ground, breaking the silence only long enough to whisper such things as "My God !!". Posted in front of a few houses, are messages for firefighters.... "Thank you for saving my home", or "Thanks for trying" The terrain indeed resembles the 'scorched earth' of a recent battle, and the smell of burnt timber lingers, as I step from the Jeep to photograph a burned out lumber mill. Blackened steel, of heavy equipment, sits melted in place and massive log piles have been reduced cinders. |
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| Monday, September
15th. We arrived in Jasper last night with just enough time for
dinner, before hitting the trail to cover the easy 7 km (4.3 mi) to
Astoria camp. The unusually warm late summer days have obviously delayed
the onset of fall colour here. However, Mother Nature has seen fit to
return things to normal for our arrival, and we awake to a frosty morning.
Our route today will take us over the shoulder of Old Horn Mtn (2988m / 9800') for views of the Ramparts, as they rise from Amethyst Lake, on the Continental Divide. It's a cool day, but the sun feels warm on our faces....... until the snow starts! The mountain peaks are playing 'hide & seek' in the clouds, as we begin the short descent to Amethyst Lake. We arrive at Surprise Point camp and set up our tents, as the 'white stuff' starts to accumulate on the ground. |
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Tuesday, September
16th. Dry powder snow piled up overnight and the temperature dropped
to -7°c (19°f). An extra coffee will be needed, to warm us up this
morning. We gather under the tarp, to discuss the options for the rest of
our 'winter' trip.
The Eremite Valley is socked in with heavy weather, so we won't bother with a day trip down there. We could move camp to the other end of the lake, then head out via Portal Creek on Thursday. Finally, we decide to spend the snowy day with our cameras, around Amethyst, then exit back out the Astoria route. At this point, I am blissfully unaware that my trusty Minolta had fired its last shot, back on the Yellowhead Highway. Fortunately, Troy captured some great photos of the grizzly sow, on his digital. |
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| Wednesday, September
17th. It was definitely another cold one last night, but we
stayed up a while, just to be sure that I got my butt kicked playing
cards. With no rivers or waterfalls nearby, this camp is very quiet, under
its blanket of snow. It's easy to get a good night's sleep, if you're warm
enough.
There's a few breaks in the clouds, and we're not in any particular hurry, to move camp, this morning. So, we take time to visit with a couple from Oregon, who were set up nearby, and a young ranger on her first visit to the park. I am a bit surprised by how many people we've seen, in the area this year. I would almost expect to have the place to ourselves, by mid-September. Our return trail has changed a bit. The melting snow, combined with some recent horse traffic, has made things pretty mucky in places. But, we make good time and stop for lunch near the Astoria River. We're hoping for a dry night at camp. |
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Thursday, September
18th. A dry night it was, but the snow's coming down heavily as we
fold our tents. The hike out is a short one, and we'll have time for
showers and lunch in Jasper, before getting back on the road.
I'll only be home for a day, before heading out to Manning PP in the Cascades, to meet some friends for a weekend on the Skyline Trail. But, that's long enough to discover that my camera is indeed dead and I have no pics of my own, from the Tonquin. It would have been nice to do a bit more exploring, in better weather,
but it's been a good trip none the less. Always nice to get out with Mel
and Troy, and the Tonquin is a spectacular place in any conditions. |
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| Jasper NP Info |
Tonquin 2003 Troy's Photo Gallery |
Tonquin Valley 2003 
